The temperatures are up, the pools are out, and summer fun is here! Memorial Day to Labor Day is a wonderful, but busy, time of year at Fetchers. Make sure you reserve a spot for boarding in advance as we will fill up for the big summer holidays. Not taking a trip this year? Treat your dog to a “Staycation” for the day or couple of nights and they’ll come home happy, tired, and content. Don’t let your dog miss out on all the great times we’ll have at Fetchers this summer!

The temperatures are up, the pools are out, and summer fun is here! Memorial Day to Labor Day is a wonderful, but busy, time of year at Fetchers. Make sure you reserve a spot for boarding in advance as we will fill up for the big summer holidays. Not taking a trip this year? Treat your dog to a “Staycation” for the day or couple of nights and they’ll come home happy, tired, and content. Don’t let your dog miss out on all the great times we’ll have at Fetchers this summer!

The temperatures are up, the pools are out, and summer fun is here! Memorial Day to Labor Day is a wonderful, but busy, time of year at Fetchers. Make sure you reserve a spot for boarding in advance as we will fill up for the big summer holidays. Not taking a trip this year? Treat your dog to a “Staycation” for the day or couple of nights and they’ll come home happy, tired, and content.

In this, the second in my series of articles about communicating with your dog, we’ll start to get into the meat of the issue.  We need to start by breaking this problem down a bit.  Obviously, communication is all about transmitting and receiving information.  Therefore we have three main areas we need to focus on: How do dogs send information, How do we send information to dogs, and what is the content of the information.  We’ll tackle these one at a time and then connect them together into coherent system.

The best, and most obvious, place to start is how dogs communicate with each other and, by extension, with us.  Before we discuss what we can know we need to first discuss what we can’t.  Scent plays as important a role in canine communication as language does in ours.  It is impossible to know how extensive scent communication in dogs is or what percentage of total communication it occupies but there can be no doubt that it is the primary conduit for vast amounts information. Therefore we have to deal with what we can perceive, namely body language.

Dogs help us in the sense that virtually everything in their heads is broadcast through their bodies. Once we are tuned in to their body language we can almost always extrapolate that to their thoughts. Now most of us recognize the broad categories of canine body language: submission, play, dominance, fear, etc. It’s the subtleties and context we usually misinterpret. Here’s a for instance I hear a lot.

Clients approach me all the time about dogs, usually small but not always, which follow the owner around and bark incessantly. More often than not they report that the only way to quiet the dog is to pick it up or in some other way give the dog something. This is a lot like giving a crying baby a pacifier. What has occurred here is that the dog and owner have created a behavioral feedback loop where no matter what the dog is trying to communicate they receive the same response which conditions the dog to only seek one thing, the affection of its’ owner, obsessively. So let’s deconstruct this for a closer look. Let’s say that in the beginning of their relationship the dog barked for a purpose other than affection, for instance a desire for play or exercise. The owner, not knowing what the dog is asking, assumes their pet wants their attention so they pick the dog up. So, what happens in the dog’s head? Well, first, the dog receives the message that whatever they originally wanted has been denied them and replaced with a different outcome, a pacifier in other words. With a few more repetitions of this circle the dog will eventually put all other desires below the one offered by the owner. This is classic, if unconscious, conditioning and will not take very long to become ingrained.

Now let’s apply a little more rigorous approach to this situation. First of all dogs, just like us, have nearly limitless desires. The number and variety of desires is much less in a dog but the intensity is about the same. Again, just like us, a relatively small number of those desires will actually be attained. In fact learning boundaries and how to deal with unfulfilled desires is an integral part of a dog’s social development. This is why it is so important for you not to bargain with your dog. Let me say that again. DO NOT BARGAIN WITH YOUR DOG! What I mean by this is don’t take the short cut of giving your dog a pacifier. Your dog will never respect you, and by extension be as happy as they could be, if you cater to their every whim. Let’s go over a better way to handle a situation like this.

If your dog is obsessively asking you for something, (food, play, affection, etc.), they are demanding from you. No one, dog or human, makes demands of those they truly respect. So by their behavior the dog is telling us they lack a strong leader. I cannot stress enough the importance of a strong leader in the social and mental health of a dog. In some ways it is more important than anything else. I imagine that anyone reading this has a dog which has it pretty good. Food, water, shelter, love, affection, toys, trips to the dog park and daycare, and high quality health care. Not a bad deal. All these things are no substitute for strong leadership, the core of dog social life. So let’s complete the picture and give them what they need.

Your dog comes to you demanding something, what to do now. First, try to decipher what the dog is asking. Shut out the vocalization because there is little information there. Does the dog need something or are they just bored and looking to be entertained. Does the dog need to go out, is their water bowl empty, etc. Is the dog attempting to go somewhere or otherwise gain access to something that requires your assistance? If so, is it appropriate? Answering questions is just the first step. You now need to make a decision. This is not a decision about whether you want the dog to quiet down or not but rather if what they want is appropriate and something you are willing to do or provide. If it seems that the dog is just looking for attention out of boredom this should always be denied, at least for a while. Remember, you are the leader not a servant for your dog. You should not take the easy way out and say, “Well, we were going to go to the dog park in a couple of hours but I guess we can go now.” By doing that you have just made yourself into a chauffer for a dog and taken another step down the road to having a dog who thinks they are the center of the universe. Stand your ground and apply some structure to your dog. The important thing to remember is to be aware of what is happening and to make decisions as opposed to reacting to your dog. Think of it like a child asking for ice cream for dinner. Regardless of the ensuing tantrum you would stand your ground because you know it is better for the child in the long run. That’s being a good leader. Your dog deserves the same.

Now everyone loves a good cliffhanger so we’ll wait until next time to go over the best way to handle these situations from a behavioral standpoint. I will do everything possible to greatly reduce the time before the next installment. One other note. I am in dire need of feedback as to whether any of this is helpful or not and ideas for future columns. Please leave a comment or drop me an e-mail. Thanks so much.

In this, the second in my series of articles about communicating with your dog, we’ll start to get into the meat of the issue.  We need to start by breaking this problem down a bit.  Obviously, communication is all about transmitting and receiving information.  Therefore we have three main areas we need to focus on: How do dogs send information, How do we send information to dogs, and what is the content of the information.  We’ll tackle these one at a time and then connect them together into coherent system.

The best, and most obvious, place to start is how dogs communicate with each other and, by extension, with us.  Before we discuss what we can know we need to first discuss what we can’t.  Scent plays as important a role in canine communication as language does in ours.  It is impossible to know how extensive scent communication in dogs is or what percentage of total communication it occupies but there can be no doubt that it is the primary conduit for vast amounts information. Therefore we have to deal with what we can perceive, namely body language.

Dogs help us in the sense that virtually everything in their heads is broadcast through their bodies. Once we are tuned in to their body language we can almost always extrapolate that to their thoughts. Now most of us recognize the broad categories of canine body language: submission, play, dominance, fear, etc. It’s the subtleties and context we usually misinterpret. Here’s a for instance I hear a lot.

Clients approach me all the time about dogs, usually small but not always, which follow the owner around and bark incessantly. More often than not they report that the only way to quiet the dog is to pick it up or in some other way give the dog something. This is a lot like giving a crying baby a pacifier. What has occurred here is that the dog and owner have created a behavioral feedback loop where no matter what the dog is trying to communicate they receive the same response which conditions the dog to only seek one thing, the affection of its’ owner, obsessively. So let’s deconstruct this for a closer look. Let’s say that in the beginning of their relationship the dog barked for a purpose other than affection, for instance a desire for play or exercise. The owner, not knowing what the dog is asking, assumes their pet wants their attention so they pick the dog up. So, what happens in the dog’s head? Well, first, the dog receives the message that whatever they originally wanted has been denied them and replaced with a different outcome, a pacifier in other words. With a few more repetitions of this circle the dog will eventually put all other desires below the one offered by the owner. This is classic, if unconscious, conditioning and will not take very long to become ingrained.

Now let’s apply a little more rigorous approach to this situation. First of all dogs, just like us, have nearly limitless desires. The number and variety of desires is much less in a dog but the intensity is about the same. Again, just like us, a relatively small number of those desires will actually be attained. In fact learning boundaries and how to deal with unfulfilled desires is an integral part of a dog’s social development. This is why it is so important for you not to bargain with your dog. Let me say that again. DO NOT BARGAIN WITH YOUR DOG! What I mean by this is don’t take the short cut of giving your dog a pacifier. Your dog will never respect you, and by extension be as happy as they could be, if you cater to their every whim. Let’s go over a better way to handle a situation like this.

If your dog is obsessively asking you for something, (food, play, affection, etc.), they are demanding from you. No one, dog or human, makes demands of those they truly respect. So by their behavior the dog is telling us they lack a strong leader. I cannot stress enough the importance of a strong leader in the social and mental health of a dog. In some ways it is more important than anything else. I imagine that anyone reading this has a dog which has it pretty good. Food, water, shelter, love, affection, toys, trips to the dog park and daycare, and high quality health care. Not a bad deal. All these things are no substitute for strong leadership, the core of dog social life. So let’s complete the picture and give them what they need.

Your dog comes to you demanding something, what to do now. First, try to decipher what the dog is asking. Shut out the vocalization because there is little information there. Does the dog need something or are they just bored and looking to be entertained. Does the dog need to go out, is their water bowl empty, etc. Is the dog attempting to go somewhere or otherwise gain access to something that requires your assistance? If so, is it appropriate? Answering questions is just the first step. You now need to make a decision. This is not a decision about whether you want the dog to quiet down or not but rather if what they want is appropriate and something you are willing to do or provide. If it seems that the dog is just looking for attention out of boredom this should always be denied, at least for a while. Remember, you are the leader not a servant for your dog. You should not take the easy way out and say, “Well, we were going to go to the dog park in a couple of hours but I guess we can go now.” By doing that you have just made yourself into a chauffer for a dog and taken another step down the road to having a dog who thinks they are the center of the universe. Stand your ground and apply some structure to your dog. The important thing to remember is to be aware of what is happening and to make decisions as opposed to reacting to your dog. Think of it like a child asking for ice cream for dinner. Regardless of the ensuing tantrum you would stand your ground because you know it is better for the child in the long run. That’s being a good leader. Your dog deserves the same.

Now everyone loves a good cliffhanger so we’ll wait until next time to go over the best way to handle these situations from a behavioral standpoint. I will do everything possible to greatly reduce the time before the next installment. One other note. I am in dire need of feedback as to whether any of this is helpful or not and ideas for future columns. Please leave a comment or drop me an e-mail. Thanks so much.

In this, the second in my series of articles about communicating with your dog, we’ll start to get into the meat of the issue.  We need to start by breaking this problem down a bit.  Obviously, communication is all about transmitting and receiving information.  Therefore we have three main areas we need to focus on: How do dogs send information, How do we send information to dogs, and what is the content of the information.  We’ll tackle these one at a time and then connect them together into coherent system.

The best, and most obvious, place to start is how dogs communicate with each other and, by extension, with us.  Before we discuss what we can know we need to first discuss what we can’t.  Scent plays as important a role in canine communication as language does in ours.  It is impossible to know how extensive scent communication in dogs is or what percentage of total communication it occupies but there can be no doubt that it is the primary conduit for vast amounts information. Therefore we have to deal with what we can perceive, namely body language.

Dogs help us in the sense that virtually everything in their heads is broadcast through their bodies. Once we are tuned in to their body language we can almost always extrapolate that to their thoughts. Now most of us recognize the broad categories of canine body language: submission, play, dominance, fear, etc. It’s the subtleties and context we usually misinterpret. Here’s a for instance I hear a lot.

Clients approach me all the time about dogs, usually small but not always, which follow the owner around and bark incessantly. More often than not they report that the only way to quiet the dog is to pick it up or in some other way give the dog something. This is a lot like giving a crying baby a pacifier. What has occurred here is that the dog and owner have created a behavioral feedback loop where no matter what the dog is trying to communicate they receive the same response which conditions the dog to only seek one thing, the affection of its’ owner, obsessively. So let’s deconstruct this for a closer look. Let’s say that in the beginning of their relationship the dog barked for a purpose other than affection, for instance a desire for play or exercise. The owner, not knowing what the dog is asking, assumes their pet wants their attention so they pick the dog up. So, what happens in the dog’s head? Well, first, the dog receives the message that whatever they originally wanted has been denied them and replaced with a different outcome, a pacifier in other words. With a few more repetitions of this circle the dog will eventually put all other desires below the one offered by the owner. This is classic, if unconscious, conditioning and will not take very long to become ingrained.

Now let’s apply a little more rigorous approach to this situation. First of all dogs, just like us, have nearly limitless desires. The number and variety of desires is much less in a dog but the intensity is about the same. Again, just like us, a relatively small number of those desires will actually be attained. In fact learning boundaries and how to deal with unfulfilled desires is an integral part of a dog’s social development. This is why it is so important for you not to bargain with your dog. Let me say that again. DO NOT BARGAIN WITH YOUR DOG! What I mean by this is don’t take the short cut of giving your dog a pacifier. Your dog will never respect you, and by extension be as happy as they could be, if you cater to their every whim. Let’s go over a better way to handle a situation like this.

If your dog is obsessively asking you for something, (food, play, affection, etc.), they are demanding from you. No one, dog or human, makes demands of those they truly respect. So by their behavior the dog is telling us they lack a strong leader. I cannot stress enough the importance of a strong leader in the social and mental health of a dog. In some ways it is more important than anything else. I imagine that anyone reading this has a dog which has it pretty good. Food, water, shelter, love, affection, toys, trips to the dog park and daycare, and high quality health care. Not a bad deal. All these things are no substitute for strong leadership, the core of dog social life. So let’s complete the picture and give them what they need.

Your dog comes to you demanding something, what to do now. First, try to decipher what the dog is asking. Shut out the vocalization because there is little information there. Does the dog need something or are they just bored and looking to be entertained. Does the dog need to go out, is their water bowl empty, etc. Is the dog attempting to go somewhere or otherwise gain access to something that requires your assistance? If so, is it appropriate? Answering questions is just the first step. You now need to make a decision. This is not a decision about whether you want the dog to quiet down or not but rather if what they want is appropriate and something you are willing to do or provide. If it seems that the dog is just looking for attention out of boredom this should always be denied, at least for a while. Remember, you are the leader not a servant for your dog. You should not take the easy way out and say, “Well, we were going to go to the dog park in a couple of hours but I guess we can go now.” By doing that you have just made yourself into a chauffer for a dog and taken another step down the road to having a dog who thinks they are the center of the universe. Stand your ground and apply some structure to your dog. The important thing to remember is to be aware of what is happening and to make decisions as opposed to reacting to your dog. Think of it like a child asking for ice cream for dinner. Regardless of the ensuing tantrum you would stand your ground because you know it is better for the child in the long run. That’s being a good leader. Your dog deserves the same.

Now everyone loves a good cliffhanger so we’ll wait until next time to go over the best way to handle these situations from a behavioral standpoint. I will do everything possible to greatly reduce the time before the next installment. One other note. I am in dire need of feedback as to whether any of this is helpful or not and ideas for future columns. Please leave a comment or drop me an e-mail. Thanks so much.

In this, the second in my series of articles about communicating with your dog, we’ll start to get into the meat of the issue.  We need to start by breaking this problem down a bit.  Obviously, communication is all about transmitting and receiving information.  Therefore we have three main areas we need to focus on: How do dogs send information, How do we send information to dogs, and what is the content of the information.  We’ll tackle these one at a time and then connect them together into coherent system.

The best, and most obvious, place to start is how dogs communicate with each other and, by extension, with us.  Before we discuss what we can know we need to first discuss what we can’t.  Scent plays as important a role in canine communication as language does in ours.  It is impossible to know how extensive scent communication in dogs is or what percentage of total communication it occupies but there can be no doubt that it is the primary conduit for vast amounts information. Therefore we have to deal with what we can perceive, namely body language.

Dogs help us in the sense that virtually everything in their heads is broadcast through their bodies. Once we are tuned in to their body language we can almost always extrapolate that to their thoughts. Now most of us recognize the broad categories of canine body language: submission, play, dominance, fear, etc. It’s the subtleties and context we usually misinterpret. Here’s a for instance I hear a lot.

Clients approach me all the time about dogs, usually small but not always, which follow the owner around and bark incessantly. More often than not they report that the only way to quiet the dog is to pick it up or in some other way give the dog something. This is a lot like giving a crying baby a pacifier. What has occurred here is that the dog and owner have created a behavioral feedback loop where no matter what the dog is trying to communicate they receive the same response which conditions the dog to only seek one thing, the affection of its’ owner, obsessively. So let’s deconstruct this for a closer look. Let’s say that in the beginning of their relationship the dog barked for a purpose other than affection, for instance a desire for play or exercise. The owner, not knowing what the dog is asking, assumes their pet wants their attention so they pick the dog up. So, what happens in the dog’s head? Well, first, the dog receives the message that whatever they originally wanted has been denied them and replaced with a different outcome, a pacifier in other words. With a few more repetitions of this circle the dog will eventually put all other desires below the one offered by the owner. This is classic, if unconscious, conditioning and will not take very long to become ingrained.

Now let’s apply a little more rigorous approach to this situation. First of all dogs, just like us, have nearly limitless desires. The number and variety of desires is much less in a dog but the intensity is about the same. Again, just like us, a relatively small number of those desires will actually be attained. In fact learning boundaries and how to deal with unfulfilled desires is an integral part of a dog’s social development. This is why it is so important for you not to bargain with your dog. Let me say that again. DO NOT BARGAIN WITH YOUR DOG! What I mean by this is don’t take the short cut of giving your dog a pacifier. Your dog will never respect you, and by extension be as happy as they could be, if you cater to their every whim. Let’s go over a better way to handle a situation like this.

If your dog is obsessively asking you for something, (food, play, affection, etc.), they are demanding from you. No one, dog or human, makes demands of those they truly respect. So by their behavior the dog is telling us they lack a strong leader. I cannot stress enough the importance of a strong leader in the social and mental health of a dog. In some ways it is more important than anything else. I imagine that anyone reading this has a dog which has it pretty good. Food, water, shelter, love, affection, toys, trips to the dog park and daycare, and high quality health care. Not a bad deal. All these things are no substitute for strong leadership, the core of dog social life. So let’s complete the picture and give them what they need.

Your dog comes to you demanding something, what to do now. First, try to decipher what the dog is asking. Shut out the vocalization because there is little information there. Does the dog need something or are they just bored and looking to be entertained. Does the dog need to go out, is their water bowl empty, etc. Is the dog attempting to go somewhere or otherwise gain access to something that requires your assistance? If so, is it appropriate? Answering questions is just the first step. You now need to make a decision. This is not a decision about whether you want the dog to quiet down or not but rather if what they want is appropriate and something you are willing to do or provide. If it seems that the dog is just looking for attention out of boredom this should always be denied, at least for a while. Remember, you are the leader not a servant for your dog. You should not take the easy way out and say, “Well, we were going to go to the dog park in a couple of hours but I guess we can go now.” By doing that you have just made yourself into a chauffer for a dog and taken another step down the road to having a dog who thinks they are the center of the universe. Stand your ground and apply some structure to your dog. The important thing to remember is to be aware of what is happening and to make decisions as opposed to reacting to your dog. Think of it like a child asking for ice cream for dinner. Regardless of the ensuing tantrum you would stand your ground because you know it is better for the child in the long run. That’s being a good leader. Your dog deserves the same.

Now everyone loves a good cliffhanger so we’ll wait until next time to go over the best way to handle these situations from a behavioral standpoint. I will do everything possible to greatly reduce the time before the next installment. One other note. I am in dire need of feedback as to whether any of this is helpful or not and ideas for future columns. Please leave a comment or drop me an e-mail. Thanks so much.

In this, the second in my series of articles about communicating with your dog, we’ll start to get into the meat of the issue.  We need to start by breaking this problem down a bit.  Obviously, communication is all about transmitting and receiving information.  Therefore we have three main areas we need to focus on: How do dogs send information, How do we send information to dogs, and what is the content of the information.  We’ll tackle these one at a time and then connect them together into coherent system.

The best, and most obvious, place to start is how dogs communicate with each other and, by extension, with us.  Before we discuss what we can know we need to first discuss what we can’t.  Scent plays as important a role in canine communication as language does in ours.  It is impossible to know how extensive scent communication in dogs is or what percentage of total communication it occupies but there can be no doubt that it is the primary conduit for vast amounts information. Therefore we have to deal with what we can perceive, namely body language.

Dogs help us in the sense that virtually everything in their heads is broadcast through their bodies. Once we are tuned in to their body language we can almost always extrapolate that to their thoughts. Now most of us recognize the broad categories of canine body language: submission, play, dominance, fear, etc. It’s the subtleties and context we usually misinterpret. Here’s a for instance I hear a lot.

Clients approach me all the time about dogs, usually small but not always, which follow the owner around and bark incessantly. More often than not they report that the only way to quiet the dog is to pick it up or in some other way give the dog something. This is a lot like giving a crying baby a pacifier. What has occurred here is that the dog and owner have created a behavioral feedback loop where no matter what the dog is trying to communicate they receive the same response which conditions the dog to only seek one thing, the affection of its’ owner, obsessively. So let’s deconstruct this for a closer look. Let’s say that in the beginning of their relationship the dog barked for a purpose other than affection, for instance a desire for play or exercise. The owner, not knowing what the dog is asking, assumes their pet wants their attention so they pick the dog up. So, what happens in the dog’s head? Well, first, the dog receives

In this, the second in my series of articles about communicating with your dog, we’ll start to get into the meat of the issue.  We need to start by breaking this problem down a bit.  Obviously, communication is all about transmitting and receiving information.  Therefore we have three main areas we need to focus on: How do dogs send information, How do we send information to dogs, and What is the content of the information.  We’ll tackle these one at a time and then connect them together into coherent system.

The best, and most obvious, place to start is how dogs communicate with each other and, by extension, with us.  Before we discuss what we can know we need to first discuss what we can’t.  Scent plays as important a role in canine communication as language does in ours.  It is impossible to know how extensive scent communication in dogs is or what percentage of total communication it occupies but there can be no doubt that it is the primary conduit for vast amounts information. Therefore we have to deal with what we can perceive, namely body language.

Dogs help us in the sense that virtually everything in their heads is broadcast through their bodies. Once we are tuned in to their body language we can almost always extrapolate that to their thoughts. Now most of us recognize the broad categories of canine body language: submission, play, dominance, fear, etc. It’s the subtleties and context we usually misinterpret. Here’s a for instance I hear a lot.

Clients approach me all the time about dogs, usually small but not always, which follow the owner around and bark incessantly. More often than not they report that the only way to quiet the dog is to pick it up or in some other way give the dog something.

Phone: (303) 733-3313

Fax: (303) 733-0950

Address:
2555 S. Santa Fe Dr.
Denver, CO 80223

Please feel free to contact us through the web. We will respond to your inquiry within one business day. Please call us though if you need to make a boarding reservation.

Phone: (303) 733-3313

Fax: (303) 733-0950

Address:
2555 S. Santa Fe Dr.
Denver, CO 80223

Please feel fre

[contact-form 1 "Contact form 1"]

[contact-form 1 "Contact form 1"]

Phone: (303) 733-3313

Fax: (303) 733-0950

Address:

2555 S. Santa Fe Dr.
Box 6, Unit G
Denver, CO 80223

Please feel free to contact us through the web. We will respond to your inquiry within one business day. Please call us though if you need to make a boarding reservation.

[contact-form 1 "Contact form 1"]

In this, the second in my series of articles about communicating with your dog, we’ll start to get into the meat of the issue.  We need to start by breaking this problem down a bit.  Obviously, communication is all about transmitting and receiving information.  Therefore we have three main areas we need to focus on: How do dogs send information, How do we send information to dogs, and What is the content of the information.  We’ll tackle these one at a time and then connect them together into coherent system.

The best, and most obvious, place to start is how dogs communicate with each other and, by extension, with us.  Before we discuss what we can know we need to first discuss what we can’t.  Scent plays as important a role in canine communication as language does in ours.  It is impossible to know how extensive scent communication in dogs is or what percentage of total communication it occupies but there can be no doubt that it is the primary conduit for vast amounts information.

In this, the second in my series of articles about communicating with your dog, we’ll start to get into the meat of the issue.  We need to start by breaking this problem down a bit.  Obviously, communication is all about transmitting and receiving information.  Therefore we have three main areas we need to focus on: How do dogs send information, How do we send information to dogs, and What is the content of the information.  We’ll tackle these one at a time and then connect them together into coherent system.

The best, and most obvious, place to start is how dogs communicate with each other and, by extension, with us.  Before we discuss what we can know we need to first discuss what we can’t.  Scent plays as important a role in canine communication as language does in ours.  It is impossible to know how extensive scent communication in dogs is or what percentage of total communication it occupies but there can be no doubt that it is the primary conduit for vast amounts information.

If you’ve been following my training column you know that I generally focus on a specific issue or season.  Over the next several weeks I’ll be posting a series of articles dealing with an issue much more fundamental to your relationship with your dog, communication.  My goal is to pull back the curtain and start to answer that age old question, “What is my dog thinking?”.  The end result will be a much richer, closer relationship between you and your dog.

My experience has been that we spend a huge amount of time talking to our dogs and very little time listening.  As a consequence we can cause anxiety in our dogs.  This is why we’ll start with a simple premise:  whatever is in a dog’s head is shown in their body.  If we, as owners, don’t understand what our dogs are telling us then communication is impossible.  Therefore the first step is to decipher the language dogs use to communicate with other dogs and us.

Let’s start with dispelling some myths.  A wagging tail does not mean a dog is happy.  It means that they are excited, which can be either positive or negative.  Yes, a dog wagging its’ tail may bite you.  Next, barking is not a sign of agression.  It is a form of communication which can convey a huge variety of information.  Here’s another one I hear quite often.  A dog with their tale between their legs is scared.  Well, maybe, but not always.  If all this sounds vague and distinctly unhelpful then I’ve accomplished my first goal, which is to convey how complex and subtle a dog’s body language can be.  So much depends on context.

Here’s a comparison that might make more sense.  Imagine you walk into a room and someone you know is standing there crying.  The fact that they are crying doesn’t tell you a whole lot.  People cry when they are sad, or happy, or have dust in their eyes.  The combination of context and your prior knowledge of this person help you to form an overall picture of the other person’s emotional state.  The same is true of your dog.  Context and the individual must always be considered when trying to decipher what your dog’s emotional state is.

Now let’s consider your dog’s motivations.  By understanding what your dog is trying to achieve you can deal with it much more quickly.  The first, and most important, thing is to pay attention.  Sounds like common sense but this is often overlooked.  If your dog is not receiving proper communication back from you they will ratchet up the volume, literally and figuratively.  Your dog’s first goal is to receive an acknowledgement.  This is more important than the final outcome.  Think about how much more upset you’d be if your boss failed to even recognize your work or concerns as opposed to giving you a full hearing then deciding on a different course of action.  Same with your dog.  When they are trying to communicate with you and all you want is for the racket to stop your dog will experience increasing levels of anxiety.  Even if they do not receive what they are asking for they will be more manageable and balanced knowing that you are hearing what they are saying and taking it seriously.

Now that I’ve laid what we want to accomplish I’m afraid you’ll have to wait until next week when I’ll go in-depth of the “how”.  Part two will deal with “reading” your dog and how to tune in to their subtle body language.  Later parts will deal with how you communicate your desires to your dog.  I hope you’ll stick with me through this as I believe strongly that this is at the root of many behavior issues and is at the center of all solutions.

If you’ve been following my training column you know that I generally focus on a specific issue or season.  Over the next several weeks I’ll be posting a series of articles dealing with an issue much more fundamental to your relationship with your dog, communication.  My goal is to pull back the curtain and start to answer that age old question, “What is my dog thinking?”.  The end result will be a much richer, closer relationship between you and your dog.

My experience has been that we spend a huge amount of time talking to our dogs and very little time listening.  As a consequence we can cause anxiety in our dogs.  This is why we’ll start with a simple premise:  whatever is in a dog’s head is shown in their body.  If we, as owners, don’t understand what our dogs are telling us then communication is impossible.  Therefore the first step is to decipher the language dogs use to communicate with other dogs and us.

Let’s start with dispelling some myths.  A wagging tail does not mean a dog is happy.  It means that they are excited, which can be either positive or negative.  Yes, a dog wagging its’ tail may bite you.  Next, barking is not a sign of agression.  It is a form of communication which can convey a huge variety of information.  Here’s another one I hear quite often.  A dog with their tale between their legs is scared.  Well, maybe, but not always.  If all this sounds vague and distinctly unhelpful then I’ve accomplished my first goal, which is to convey how complex and subtle a dog’s body language can be.  So much depends on context.

Here’s a comparison that might make more sense.  Imagine you walk into a room and someone you know is standing there crying.  The fact that they are crying doesn’t tell you a whole lot.  People cry when they are sad, or happy, or have dust in their eyes.  The combination of context and your prior knowledge of this person help you to form an overall picture of the other person’s emotional state.  The same is true of your dog.  Context and the individual must always be considered when trying to decipher what your dog’s emotional state is.

Now let’s consider your dog’s motivations.  By understanding what your dog is trying to achieve you can deal with it much more quickly.  The first, and most important, thing is to pay attention.  Sounds like common sense but this is often overlooked.  If your dog is not receiving proper communication back from you they will ratchet up the volume, literally and figuratively.  Your dog’s first goal is to receive an acknowledgement.  This is more important than the final outcome.  Think about how much more upset you’d be if your boss failed to even recognize your work or concerns as opposed to giving you a full hearing then deciding on a different course of action.  Same with your dog.  When they are trying to communicate with you and all you want is for the racket to stop your dog will experience increasing levels of anxiety.  Even if they do not receive what they are asking for they will be more manageable and balanced knowing that you are hearing what they are saying and taking it seriously.

Now that I’ve laid what we want to accomplish I’m afraid you’ll have to wait until next week when I’ll go in-depth of the “how”.  Part two will deal with “reading” your dog and how to tune in to their subtle body language.  Later parts will deal with how you communicate your desires to your dog.  I hope you’ll stick with me through this as I believe strongly that this is at the root of many behavior issues and is at the center of all solutions.

If you’ve been following my training column you know that I generally focus on a specific issue or season.  Over the next several weeks I’ll be posting a series of articles dealing with an issue much more fundamental to your relationship with your dog, communication.  My goal is to pull back the curtain and start to answer that age old question, “What is my dog thinking?”.  The end result will be a much richer, closer relationship between you and your dog.

My experience has been that we spend a huge amount of time talking to our dogs and very little time listening.  As a consequence we can cause anxiety in our dogs.  This is why we’ll start with a simple premise:  whatever is in a dog’s head is shown in their body.  If we, as owners, don’t understand what our dogs are telling us then communication is impossible.  Therefore the first step is to decipher the language dogs use to communicate with other dogs and us.

Let’s start with dispelling some myths.  A wagging tail does not mean a dog is happy.  It means that they are excited, which can be either positive or negative.  Yes, a dog wagging its’ tail may bite you.  Next, barking is not a sign of agression.  It is a form of communication which can convey a huge variety of information.  Here’s another one I hear quite often.  A dog with their tale between their legs is scared.  Well, maybe, but not always.  If all this sounds vague and distinctly unhelpful then I’ve accomplished my first goal, which is to convey how complex and subtle a dog’s body language can be.  So much depends on context.

Here’s a comparison that might make more sense.  Imagine you walk into a room and someone you know is standing there crying.  The fact that they are crying doesn’t tell you a whole lot.  People cry when they are sad, or happy, or have dust in their eyes.  The combination of context and your prior knowledge of this person help you to form an overall picture of the other person’s emotional state.  The same is true of your dog.  Context and the individual must always be considered when trying to decipher what your dog’s emotional state is.

Now let’s consider your dog’s motivations.  By understanding what your dog is trying to achieve you can deal with it much more quickly.  The first, and most important, thing is to pay attention.  Sounds like common sense but this is often overlooked.  If your dog is not receiving proper communication back from you they will ratchet up the volume, literally and figuratively.  Your dog’s first goal is to receive an acknowledgement.  This is more important than the final outcome.  Think about how much more upset you’d be if your boss failed to even recognize your work or concerns as opposed to giving you a full hearing then deciding on a different course of action.  Same with your dog.  When they are trying to communicate with you and all you want is for the racket to stop your dog will experience increasing levels of anxiety.  Even if they do not receive what they are asking for they will be more manageable and balanced knowing that you are hearing what they are saying and taking it seriously.

Now that I’ve laid what we want to accomplish I’m afraid you’ll have to wait until next week when I’ll go in-depth of the “how”.  Part two will deal with “reading” your dog and how to tune in to their subtle body language.  Later parts will deal with how you communicate your desires to your dog.  I hope you’ll stick with me through this as I believe strongly that this is at the root of many behavior issues and is at the center of all solutions.

If you’ve been following my training column you know that I generally focus on a specific issue or season.  Over the next several weeks I’ll be posting a series of articles dealing with an issue much more fundamental to your relationship with your dog, communication.  My goal is to pull back the curtain and start to answer that age old question, “What is my dog thinking?”.  The end result will be a much richer, closer relationship between you and your dog.

My experience has been that we spend a huge amount of time talking to our dogs and very little time listening.  As a consequence we can cause anxiety in our dogs.  This is why we’ll start with a simple premise:  whatever is in a dog’s head is shown in their body.  If we, as owners, don’t understand what our dogs are telling us then communication is impossible.  Therefore the first step is to decipher the language dogs use to communicate with other dogs and us.

Let’s start with dispelling some myths.  A wagging tail does not mean a dog is happy.  It means that they are excited, which can be either positive or negative.  Yes, a dog wagging its’ tail may bite you.  Next, barking is not a sign of agression.  It is a form of communication which can convey a huge variety of information.  Here’s another one I hear quite often.  A dog with their tale between their legs is scared.  Well, maybe, but not always.  If all this sounds vague and distinctly unhelpful then I’ve accomplished my first goal, which is to convey how complex and subtle a dog’s body language can be.  So much depends on context.

Here’s a comparison that might make more sense.  Imagine you walk into a room and someone you know is standing there crying.  The fact that they are crying doesn’t tell you a whole lot.  People cry when they are sad, or happy, or have dust in their eyes.  The combination of context and your prior knowledge of this person help you to form an overall picture of the other person’s emotional state.  The same is true of your dog.  Context and the individual must always be considered when trying to decipher what your dog’s emotional state is.

Now let’s consider your dog’s motivations.  By understanding what your dog is trying to achieve you can deal with it much more quickly.  The first, and most important, thing is to pay attention.  Sounds like common sense but this is often overlooked.  If your dog is not receiving proper communication back from you they will ratchet up the volume, literally and figuratively.  Your dog’s first goal is to receive an acknowledgement.  This is more important than the final outcome.  Think about how much more upset you’d be if your boss failed to even recognize your work or concerns as opposed to giving you a full hearing then deciding on a different course of action.  Same with your dog.  When they are trying to communicate with you and all you want is for the racket to stop your dog will experience increasing levels of anxiety.  Even if they do not receive what they are asking for they will be more manageable and balanced knowing that you are hearing what they are saying and taking it seriously.

Now that I’ve laid what we want to accomplish I’m afraid you’ll have to wait until next week when I’ll go in-depth of the “how”.  Part two will deal with “reading” your dog and how to tune in to their subtle body language.  Later parts will deal with how you communicate your desires to your dog.  I hope you’ll stick with me through this as I believe strongly that this is at

If you’ve been following my training column you know that I generally focus on a specific issue or season.  Over the next several weeks I’ll be posting a series of articles dealing with an issue much more fundamental to your relationship with your dog, communication.  My goal is to pull back the curtain and start to answer that age old question, “What is my dog thinking?”.  The end result will be a much richer, closer relationship between you and your dog.

My experience has been that we spend a huge amount of time talking to our dogs and very little time listening.  As a consequence we can cause anxiety in our dogs.  This is why we’ll start with a simple premise:  whatever is in a dog’s head is shown in their body.  If we, as owners, don’t understand what our dogs are telling us then communication is impossible.  Therefore the first step is to decipher the language dogs use to communicate with other dogs and us.

Let’s start with dispelling some myths.  A wagging tail does not mean a dog is happy.  It means that they are excited, which can be either positive or negative.  Yes, a dog wagging its’ tail may bite you.  Next, barking is not a sign of agression.  It is a form of communication which can convey a huge variety of information.  Here’s another one I hear quite often.  A dog with their tale between their legs is scared.  Well, maybe, but not always.  If all this sounds vague and distinctly unhelpful then I’ve accomplished my first goal, which is to convey how complex and subtle a dog’s body language can be.  So much depends on context.

Here’s a comparison that might make more sense.  Imagine you walk into a room and someone you know is standing there crying.  The fact that they are crying doesn’t tell you a whole lot.  People cry when they are sad, or happy, or have dust in their eyes.  The combination of context and your prior knowledge of this person help you to form an overall picture of the other person’s emotional state.  The same is true of your dog.  Context and the individual must always be considered when trying to decipher what your dog’s emotional state is.

Whether you’re a spring skier, have big Valentine’s Day plans, or are taking a spring break trip chances are you’ll be doing something fun in the next few months.  Make your reservations now so that your dog can have as much fun as you’re having and you can relax knowing they are in good hands.

Spring is a great time to make sure our dogs are ready for all the summer activities they, and we, love so much.  Dogs, just like people, are often much less active in winter.  They are outside less, get fewer and shorter walks, and less trips to the dog park or mountains.  So, just like us, they need to be eased back into strenuous activity.

The first step is a thorough check-up with your vet.  Now is a great time to make sure all your pets vaccinations are up to date, that their joints are in good shape, and to discuss with your vet whether your dog is on a good nutritional plan.  Your dog will enjoy all those hikes a lot more if you lay a foundation of good health for them.

Now that they’ve been all checked out you can start to ease them back into activity.  It sounds obvious but start small.  Instead of that 20 mile hike through the Flatirons you might want to consider a couple trips to Chatfield or the dog park first.  Try and stay away from back to back days of heavy activity for the first few weeks until their stamina has been built back up.  Start gradually lengthening your daily walks, (or start daily walks, which will be great for both you and your dog), and mixing in more strenuous play.  Consider taking your dog to daycare a couple of days before a high-exertion outing to give them a good cardio workout.  The most important thing is to not assume that your dog can just flip a switch and become the amazing athlete you remember from last summer.  They need to work back into it just like us.

Another important point is to give your dog adequate cool down and recovery time.  By July or August they will be able to go all day, every day.  In March and April they will probably need a break between big days.

My last comment is on two health areas which are front and center in springtime:  grooming and parasites.

Warmer temperatures bring about the “Big Shed” we all know so well.  Getting your dog groomed in the spring is vital.  They will be more comfortable, more active, look great, and less susceptible to parasites.

Which brings us to parasites.  A well groomed dog is less likely to get parasites but is in no way immune to them.  Colorado has experienced a surge of parasitic infestation in recent years including some which used to be extremely rare or unheard of here.  These include ticks, lice, heartworm, intestinal worms, and yes, even fleas.  The good news is that all of these can be easily prevented or treated.  I recommend all pets be treated with a “Frontline” type product along with preventive heartworm medication, (this includes cats!), even if they don’t get out often or have limited contact with other dogs.  You might consider getting your dog vaccinated against Giardia and Leptisporosis as these are more prevalent when the weather is nice.  As always, your vet is your best resource and can guide you in making sure your pet has all the protection they need.

By starting now you can make sure that even the biggest couch potato has a safe and active summer of fun.

Spring is a great time to make sure our dogs are ready for all the summer activities they, and we, love so much.  Dogs, just like people, are often much less active in winter.  They are outside less, get fewer and shorter walks, and less trips to the dog park or mountains.  So, just like us, they need to be eased back into strenuous activity.

The first step is a thorough check-up with your vet.  Now is a great time to make sure all your pets vaccinations are up to date, that their joints are in good shape, and to discuss with your vet whether your dog is on a good nutritional plan.  Your dog will enjoy all those hikes a lot more if you lay a foundation of good health for them.

Now that they’ve been all checked out you can start to ease them back into activity.  It sounds obvious but start small.  Instead of that 20 mile hike through the Flatirons you might want to consider a couple trips to Chatfield or the dog park first.  Try and stay away from back to back days of heavy activity for the first few weeks until their stamina has been built back up.  Start gradually lengthening your daily walks, (or start daily walks, which will be great for both you and your dog), and mixing in more strenuous play.  Consider taking your dog to daycare a couple of days before a high-exertion outing to give them a good cardio workout.  The most important thing is to not assume that your dog can just flip a switch and become the amazing athlete you remember from last summer.  They need to work back into it just like us.

Another important point is to give your dog adequate cool down and recovery time.  By July or August they will be able to go all day, every day.  In March and April they will probably need a break between big days.

My last comment is on two health areas which are front and center in springtime:  grooming and parasites.

Warmer temperatures bring about the “Big Shed” we all know so well.  Getting your dog groomed in the spring is vital.  They will be more comfortable, more active, look great, and less susceptible to parasites.

Which brings us to parasites.  A well groomed dog is less likely to get parasites but is in no way immune to them.  Colorado has experienced a surge of parasitic infestation in recent years including some which used to be extremely rare or unheard of here.  These include ticks, lice, heartworm, intestinal worms, and yes, even fleas.  The good news is that all of these can be easily prevented or treated.  I recommend all pets be treated with a “Frontline” type product along with preventive heartworm medication, (this includes cats!), even if they don’t get out often or have limited contact with other dogs.  You might consider getting your dog vaccinated against Giardia and Leptisporosis as these are more prevalent when the weather is nice.  As always, your vet is your best resource and can guide you in making sure your pet has all the protection they need.

By starting now you can make sure that even the biggest couch potato has a safe and active summer of fun.

Spring is a great time to make sure our dogs are ready for all the summer activities they, and we, love so much.  Dogs, just like people, are often much less active in winter.  They are outside less, get fewer and shorter walks, and less trips to the dog park or mountains.  So, just like us, they need to be eased back into strenuous activity.

The first step is a thorough check-up with your vet.  Now is a great time to make sure all your pets vaccinations are up to date, that their joints are in good shape, and to discuss with your vet whether your dog is on a good nutritional plan.  Your dog will enjoy all those hikes a lot more if you lay a foundation of good health for them.

Now that they’ve been all checked out you can start to ease them back into activity.  It sounds obvious but start small.  Instead of that 20 mile hike through the Flatirons you might want to consider a couple trips to Chatfield or the dog park first.  Try and stay away from back to back days of heavy activity for the first few weeks until their stamina has been built back up.  Start gradually lengthening your daily walks, (or start daily walks, which will be great for both you and your dog), and mixing in more strenuous play.  Consider taking your dog to daycare a couple of days before a high-exertion outing to give them a good cardio workout.  The most important thing is to not assume that your dog can just flip a switch and become the amazing athlete you remember from last summer.  They need to work back into it just like us.

Another important point is to give your dog adequate cool down and recovery time.  By July or August they will be able to go all day, every day.  In March and April they will probably need a break between big days.

My last comment is on two health areas which are front and center in springtime:  grooming and parasites.

Warmer temperatures bring about the “Big Shed” we all know so well.  Getting your dog groomed in the spring is vital.  They will be more comfortable, more active, look great, and less susceptible to parasites.

Which brings us to parasites.  A well groomed dog is less likely to get parasites but is in no way immune to them.  Colorado has experienced a surge of parasitic infestation in recent years including some which used to be extremely rare or unheard of here.  These include ticks, lice, heartworm, intestinal worms, and yes, even fleas.  The good news is that all of these can be easily prevented or treated.  I recommend all pets be treated with a “Frontline” type product along with preventive heartworm medication, (this includes cats!), even if they don’t get out often or have limited contact with other dogs.  You might consider getting your dog vaccinated against Giardia and Leptisporosis as these are more prevalent when the weather is nice.  As always, your vet is your best resource and can guide you in making sure your pet has all the protection they need.

By starting now you can make sure that even the biggest couch potato has a safe and active summer of fun.

Spring is a great time to make sure our dogs are ready for all the summer activities they, and we, love so much.  Dogs, just like people, are often much less active in winter.  They are outside less, get fewer and shorter walks, and less trips to the dog park or mountains.  So, just like us, they need to be eased back into strenuous activity.

The first step is a thorough check-up with your vet.  Now is a great time to make sure all your pets vaccinations are up to date, that their joints are in good shape, and to discuss with your vet whether your dog is on a good nutritional plan.  Your dog will enjoy all those hikes a lot more if you lay a foundation of good health for them.

Now that they’ve been all checked out you can start to ease them back into activity.  It sounds obvious but start small.  Instead of that 20 mile hike through the Flatirons you might want to consider a couple trips to Chatfield or the dog park first.  Try and stay away from back to back days of heavy activity for the first few weeks until their stamina has been built back up.  Start gradually lengthening your daily walks, (or start daily walks, which will be great for both you and your dog), and mixing in more strenuous play.  Consider taking your dog to daycare a couple of days before a high-exertion outing to give them a good cardio workout.  The most important thing is to not assume that your dog can just flip a switch and become the amazing athlete you remember from last summer.  They need to work back into it just like us.

Another important point is to give your dog adequate cool down and recovery time.  By July or August they will be able to go all day, every day.  In March and April they will probably need a break between big days.

My last comment is on two health areas which are front and center in springtime:  grooming and parasites.

Warmer temperatures bring about the “Big Shed” we all know so well.  Getting your dog groomed in the spring is vital.  They will be more comfortable, more active, look great, and less susceptible to parasites.

Which brings us to parasites.  A well groomed dog is less likely to get parasites but is in no way immune to them.  Colorado has experienced a surge of parasitic infestation in recent years including some which used to be extremely rare or unheard of here.  These include ticks, lice, heartworm, intestinal worms, and yes, even fleas.  The good news is that all of these can be easily prevented or treated.  I recommend all pets be treated with a “Frontline” type product along with preventive heartworm medication, (this includes cats!), even if they don’t get out often or have limited contact with other dogs.  You might consider getting your dog vaccinated against Giardia and Leptisporosis as these are more prevalent when the weather is nice.  As always, your vet is your best resource and can guide you in making sure your pet has all the protection they need.

By starting now you can make sure that even the biggest couch potato has a safe and active summer of fun.

Whether you’re a spring skier, have big Valentine’s Day plans, or are taking a spring break trip chances are you’ll be doing something fun in the next few months.  Make your reservations now so that your dog can have as much fun as you’re having and you can relax knowing they are in good hands.

Whether you’re a spring skier, have big Valentine’s Day plans, or are taking a spring break trip chances are you’ll be doing something fun in the next few months.  Make your reservations now so that your dog can have as much fun as you’re having and you can relax knowing they are in good hands.

Whether you’re a spring skier, have big Valentine’s Day plans, or are taking a spring break trip chances are you’ll be doing something fun in the next few months.  Make your reservations now so that your dog can have as much fun as you’re having and you can relax knowing they are in good hands.

Whether you’re a spring skier, have big Valentine’s Day plans, or are taking a spring break trip chances are you’ll be doing something fun in the next few months.  Make your reservations now so that your dog can have as much fun as you’re having and you can relax knowing they are in good hands.

A huge challenge of being a dog owner in Colorado is how to keep your dog well exercised in the winter without getting hypothermia yourself.  While winter activities with your dog might be somewhat more difficult than summer excursions here are a few ideas to keep your dog active and healthy.

First, as always, is safety.  Make sure both of you are ready to deal with the elements.  Even if you’re just planning a short walk, make sure you are prepared for unplanned extensions of your trip.  Bundle up!  Also, make sure your dog is prepared to handle the weather.  If needed, consider a sweater or coat for your dog.  Another worry is paws being cut by ice or cracking from the cold.  For dogs with sensitive paws consider booties and for all dogs a little bit of bag balm on the paws after outdoor play is always a good idea.

Now that you’re both ready, what do you do?  Well, try starting with the same places you go in the summer.  Outdoor hikes, whether cross country or trail, can be just as spectacular in January as they are in July.  In addition, trips to familiar areas in different weather conditions is a great bonding activity for your dog.  The combination of the familiar and the new will engage your dog’s mind as well as their body without the uncertainty some dogs can experience in new places.  Don’t forget the dog park either.  Many dog parks have far fewer visitors in the winter than summer and so can provide you and your dog with a unique experience.

These ideas obviously are for longer excursions.  What about every day type exercise?  Colorado is lucky in that our snow usually doesn’t stick around long so walks are usually possible.  It’s very easy to neglect  regular walks when it’s cold.  Please don’t.  Keep in mind that walking in the winter, event when there is no snow, is more physically demanding so your walks don’t have to be as long.  They are still very important.  Also, taking a few extra minutes when you are shoveling your sidewalks to make sure that your dog, especially if they are a small dog or puppy, has good access and space in the yard is vital.  This will prevent soiling in inappropriate places and provide the dog with an exercise area.  Spending ten to fifteen minutes a day outside playing and working on some light training will keep your pet happy and prevent obedience from slipping.

Two other ideas are treadmills and daycare.  Most dogs can be easily trained to walk on a tread mill which provides them with an on demand source of exercise and stimulation.  Likewise you would be hard pressed to find a more aerobic and stimulating activity than a day or two a week at Fetchers.  While I am definitely biased I believe a couple days a week at Fetchers will go a long ways towards having a happy, healthy dog.

The important thing to do is to just get out there.  Don’t let the cold stop you from enjoying your dog and the outdoors.  Try and share in your dog’s excitement and wonder of the winter landscape.  Doing that will bring you closer to each other and you just might have some fun.

A huge challenge of being a dog owner in Colorado is how to keep your dog well exercised in the winter without getting hypothermia yourself.  While winter activities with your dog might be somewhat more difficult than summer excursions here are a few ideas to keep your dog active and healthy.

First, as always, is safety.  Make sure both of you are ready to deal with the elements.  Even if you’re just planning a short walk, make sure you are prepared for unplanned extensions of your trip.  Bundle up!  Also, make sure your dog is prepared to handle the weather.  If needed, consider a sweater or coat for your dog.  Another worry is paws being cut by ice or cracking from the cold.  For dogs with sensitive paws consider booties and for all dogs a little bit of bag balm on the paws after outdoor play is always a good idea.

Now that you’re both ready, what do you do?  Well, try starting with the same places you go in the summer.  Outdoor hikes, whether cross country or trail, can be just as spectacular in January as they are in July.  In addition, trips to familiar areas in different weather conditions is a great bonding activity for your dog.  The combination of the familiar and the new will engage your dog’s mind as well as their body without the uncertainty some dogs can experience in new places.  Don’t forget the dog park either.  Many dog parks have far fewer visitors in the winter than summer and so can provide you and your dog with a unique experience.

These ideas obviously are for longer excursions.  What about every day type exercise?  Colorado is lucky in that our snow usually doesn’t stick around long so walks are usually possible.  It’s very easy to neglect  regular walks when it’s cold.  Please don’t.  Keep in mind that walking in the winter, event when there is no snow, is more physically demanding so your walks don’t have to be as long.  They are still very important.  Also, taking a few extra minutes when you are shoveling your sidewalks to make sure that your dog, especially if they are a small dog or puppy, has good access and space in the yard is vital.  This will prevent soiling in inappropriate places and provide the dog with an exercise area.  Spending ten to fifteen minutes a day outside playing and working on some light training will keep your pet happy and prevent obedience from slipping.

Two other ideas are treadmills and daycare.  Most dogs can be easily trained to walk on a tread mill which provides them with an on demand source of exercise and stimulation.  Likewise you would be hard pressed to find a more aerobic and stimulating activity than a day or two a week at Fetchers.  While I am definitely biased I believe a couple days a week at Fetchers will go a long ways towards having a happy, healthy dog.

The important thing to do is to just get out there.  Don’t let the cold stop you from enjoying your dog and the outdoors.  Try and share in your dog’s excitement and wonder of the winter landscape.  Doing that will bring you closer to each other and you just might have some fun.

A huge challenge of being a dog owner in Colorado is how to keep your dog well exercised in the winter without getting hypothermia yourself.  While winter activities with your dog might be somewhat more difficult than summer excursions here are a few ideas to keep your dog active and healthy.

First, as always, is safety.  Make sure both of you are ready to deal with the elements.  Even if you’re just planning a short walk, make sure you are prepared for unplanned extensions of your trip.  Bundle up!  Also, make sure your dog is prepared to handle the weather.  If needed, consider a sweater or coat for your dog.  Another worry is paws being cut by ice or cracking from the cold.  For dogs with sensitive paws consider booties and for all dogs a little bit of bag balm on the paws after outdoor play is always a good idea.

Now that you’re both ready, what do you do?  Well, try starting with the same places you go in the summer.  Outdoor hikes, whether cross country or trail, can be just as spectacular in January as they are in July.  In addition, trips to familiar areas in different weather conditions is a great bonding activity for your dog.  The combination of the familiar and the new will engage your dog’s mind as well as their body without the uncertainty some dogs can experience in new places.  Don’t forget the dog park either.  Many dog parks have far fewer visitors in the winter than summer and so can provide you and your dog with a unique experience.

These ideas obviously are for longer excursions.  What about every day type exercise?  Colorado is lucky in that our snow usually doesn’t stick around long so walks are usually possible.  It’s very easy to neglect  regular walks when it’s cold.  Please don’t.  Keep in mind that walking in the winter, event when there is no snow, is more physically demanding so your walks don’t have to be as long.  They are still very important.  Also, taking a few extra minutes when you are shoveling your sidewalks to make sure that your dog, especially if they are a small dog or puppy, has good access and space in the yard is vital.  This will prevent soiling in inappropriate places and provide the dog with an exercise area.  Spending ten to fifteen minutes a day outside playing and working on some light training will keep your pet happy and prevent obedience from slipping.

Two other ideas are treadmills and daycare.  Most dogs can be easily trained to walk on a tread mill which provides them with an on demand source of exercise and stimulation.  Likewise you would be hard pressed to find a more aerobic and stimulating activity than a day or two a week at Fetchers.  While I am definitely biased I believe a couple days a week at Fetchers will go a long ways towards having a happy, healthy dog.

The important thing to do is to just get out there.  Don’t let the cold stop you from enjoying your dog and the outdoors.  Try and share in your dog’s excitement and wonder of the winter landscape.  Doing that will bring you closer to each other and you just might have some fun.

A huge challenge of being a dog owner in Colorado is how to keep your dog well exercised in the winter without getting hypothermia yourself.  While winter activities with your dog might be somewhat more difficult than summer excursions here are a few ideas to keep your dog active and healthy.

First, as always, is safety.  Make sure both of you are ready to deal with the elements.  Even if you’re just planning a short walk, make sure you are prepared for unplanned extensions of your trip.  Bundle up!  Also, make sure your dog is prepared to handle the weather.  If needed, consider a sweater or coat for your dog.  Another worry is paws being cut by ice or cracking from the cold.  For dogs with sensitive paws consider booties and for all dogs a little bit of bag balm on the paws after outdoor play is always a good idea.

Now that you’re both ready, what do you do?  Well, try starting with the same places you go in the summer.  Outdoor hikes, whether cross country or trail, can be just as spectacular in January as they are in July.  In addition, trips to familiar areas in different weather conditions is a great bonding activity for your dog.  The combination of the familiar and the new will engage your dog’s mind as well as their body without the uncertainty some dogs can experience in new places.  Don’t forget the dog park either.  Many dog parks have far fewer visitors in the winter than summer and so can provide you and your dog with a unique experience.

These ideas obviously are for longer excursions.  What about every day type exercise?  Colorado is lucky in that our snow usually doesn’t stick around long so walks are usually possible.  It’s very easy to neglect  regular walks when it’s cold.  Please don’t.  Keep in mind that walking in the winter, event when there is no snow, is more physically demanding so your walks don’t have to be as long.  They are still very important.  Also, taking a few extra minutes when you are shoveling your sidewalks to make sure that your dog, especially if they are a small dog or puppy, has good access and space in the yard is vital.  This will prevent soiling in inappropriate places and provide the dog with an exercise area.  Spending ten to fifteen minutes a day outside playing and working on some light training will keep your pet happy and prevent obedience from slipping.

Two other ideas are treadmills and daycare.  Most dogs can be easily trained to walk on a tread mill which provides them with an on demand source of exercise and stimulation.  Likewise you would be hard pressed to find a more aerobic and stimulating activity than a day or two a week at Fetchers.  While I am definitely biased I believe a couple days a week at Fetchers will go a long ways towards having a happy, healthy dog.

The important thing to do is to just get out there.  Don’t let the cold stop you from enjoying your dog and the outdoors.  Try and share in your dog’s excitement and wonder of the winter landscape.  Doing that will bring you closer to each other and you just might have some fun.

A huge challenge of being a dog owner in Colorado is how to keep your dog well exercised in the winter without getting hypothermia yourself.  While winter activities with your dog might be somewhat more difficult than summer excursions here are a few ideas to keep your dog active and healthy.

First, as always, is safety.  Make sure both of you are ready to deal with the elements.  Even if you’re just planning a short walk, make sure you are prepared for unplanned extensions of your trip.  Bundle up!  Also, make sure your dog is prepared to handle the weather.  If needed, consider a sweater or coat for your dog.  Another worry is paws being cut by ice or cracking from the cold.  For dogs with sensitive paws consider booties and for all dogs a little bit of bag balm on the paws after outdoor play is always a good idea.

Now that you’re both ready, what do you do?  Well, try starting with the same places you go in the summer.  Outdoor hikes, whether cross country or trail, can be just as spectacular in January as they are in July.  In addition, trips to familiar areas in different weather conditions is a great bonding activity for your dog.  The combination of the familiar and the new will engage your dog’s mind as well as their body without the uncertainty some dogs can experience in new places.  Don’t forget the dog park either.  Many dog parks have far fewer visitors in the winter than summer and so can provide you and your dog with a unique experience.

These ideas obviously are for longer excursions.  What about every day type exercise?  Colorado is lucky in that our snow usually doesn’t stick around long so walks are usually possible.  It’s very easy to neglect  regular walks when it’s cold.  Please don’t.  Keep in mind that walking in the winter, event when there is no snow, is more physically demanding so your walks don’t have to be as long.  They are still very important.  Also, taking a few extra minutes when you are shoveling your sidewalks to make sure that your dog, especially if they are a small dog or puppy, has good access and space in the yard is vital.  This will prevent soiling in inappropriate places and provide the dog with an exercise area.  Spending ten to fifteen minutes a day outside playing and working on some light training will keep your pet happy and prevent obedience from slipping.

Two other ideas are treadmills and daycare.  Most dogs can be easily trained to walk on a tread mill which provides them with an on demand source of exercise and stimulation.  Likewise you would be hard pressed to find a more aerobic and stimulating activity than a day or two a week at Fetchers.  While I am definitely biased I believe a couple days a week at Fetchers will go a long ways towards having a happy, healthy dog.

The important thing to do is to just get out there.  Don’t let the cold stop you from enjoying your dog and the outdoors.  Try and share in your dog’s excitement and wonder of the winter landscape.  Doing that will bring you closer to each other and you just might have some fun.

A huge challenge of being a dog owner in Colorado is how to keep your dog well exercised in the winter without getting hypothermia yourself.  While winter activities with your dog might be somewhat more difficult than summer excursions here are a few ideas to keep your dog active and healthy.

First, as always, is safety.  Make sure both of you are ready to deal with the elements.  Even if you’re just planning a short walk, make sure you are prepared for unplanned extensions of your trip.  Bundle up!  Also, make sure your dog is prepared to handle the weather.  If needed, consider a sweater or coat for your dog.  Another worry is paws being cut by ice or cracking from the cold.  For dogs with sensitive paws consider booties and for all dogs a little bit of bag balm on the paws after outdoor play is always a good idea.

Now that you’re both ready, what do you do?  Well, try starting with the same places you go in the summer.  Outdoor hikes, whether cross country or trail, can be just as spectacular in January as they are in July.  In addition, trips to familiar areas in different weather conditions is a great bonding activity for your dog.  The combination of the familiar and the new will engage your dog’s mind as well as their body without the uncertainty some dogs can experience in new places.  Don’t forget the dog park either.  Many dog parks have far fewer visitors in the winter than summer and so can provide you and your dog with a unique experience.

These ideas obviously are for longer excursions.  What about every day type exercise?  Colorado is lucky in that our snow usually doesn’t stick around long so walks are usually possible.  It’s very easy to neglect  regular walks when it’s cold.  Please don’t.  Keep in mind that walking in the winter, event when there is no snow, is more physically demanding so your walks don’t have to be as long.  They are still very important.  Also, taking a few extra minutes when you are shoveling your sidewalks to make sure that your dog, especially if they are a small dog or puppy, has good access and space in the yard is vital.  This will prevent soiling in inappropriate places and provide the dog with an exercise area.  Spending ten to fifteen minutes a day outside playing and working on some light training will keep your pet happy and prevent obedience from slipping.

Two other ideas are treadmills and daycare.  Most dogs can be easily trained to walk on a tread mill which provides them with an on demand source of exercise and stimulation.  Likewise you would be hard pressed to find a more aerobic and stimulating activity than a day or two a week at Fetchers.  While I am definitely biased I believe a couple days a week at Fetchers will go a long ways towards having a happy, healthy dog.

The important thing to do is to just get out there.  Don’t let the cold stop you from enjoying your dog and the outdoors.  Try and share in your dog’s excitement and wonder of the winter landscape.  Doing that will bring you closer to each other and you just might have some fun.

A huge challenge of being a dog owner in Colorado is how to keep your dog well exercised in the winter without getting hypothermia yourself.  While winter activities with your dog might be somewhat more difficult than summer excursions here are a few ideas to keep your dog active and healthy.

First, as always, is safety.  Make sure both of you are ready to deal with the elements.  Even if you’re just planning a short walk, make sure you are prepared for unplanned extensions of your trip.  Bundle up!  Also, make sure your dog is prepared to handle the weather.  If needed, consider a sweater or coat for your dog.  Another worry is paws being cut by ice or cracking from the cold.  For dogs with sensitive paws consider booties and for all dogs a little bit of bag balm on the paws after outdoor play is always a good idea.

Now that you’re both ready, what do you do?  Well, try starting with the same places you go in the summer.  Outdoor hikes, whether cross country or trail, can be just as spectacular in January as they are in July.  In addition, trips to familiar areas in different weather conditions is a great bonding activity for your dog.  The combination of the familiar and the new will engage your dog’s mind as well as their body without the uncertainty some dogs can experience in new places.  Don’t forget the dog park either.  Many dog parks have far fewer visitors in the winter than summer and so can provide you and your dog with a unique experience.

These ideas obviously are for longer excursions.  What about every day type exercise?  Colorado is lucky in that our snow usually doesn’t stick around long so walks are usually possible.  It’s very easy to neglect  regular walks when it’s cold.  Please don’t.  Keep in mind that walking in the winter, event when there is no snow, is more physically demanding so your walks don’t have to be as long.  They are still very important.  Also, taking a few extra minutes when you are shoveling your sidewalks to make sure that your dog, especially if they are a small dog or puppy, has good access and space in the yard is vital.  This will prevent soiling in inappropriate places and provide the dog with an exercise area.  Spending ten to fifteen minutes a day outside playing and working on some light training will keep your pet happy and prevent obedience from slipping.

Two other ideas are treadmills and daycare.  Most dogs can be easily trained to walk on a tread mill which provides them with an on demand source of exercise and stimulation.  Likewise you would be hard pressed to find a more aerobic and stimulating activity than a day or two a week at Fetchers.  While I am definitely biased I believe a couple days a week at Fetchers will go a long ways towards having a happy, healthy dog.

The important thing to do is to just get out there.  Don’t let the cold stop you from enjoying your dog and the outdoors.  Try and share in your dog’s excitement and wonder of the winter landscape.  Doing that will bring you closer to each other and you just might have some fun.

A huge challenge of being a dog owner in Colorado is how to keep your dog well exercised in the winter without getting hypothermia yourself.  While winter activities with your dog might be somewhat more difficult than summer excursions here are a few ideas to keep your dog active and healthy.

First, as always, is safety.  Make sure both of you are ready to deal with the elements.  Even if you’re just planning a short walk, make sure you are prepared for unplanned extensions of your trip.  Bundle up!  Also, make sure your dog is prepared to handle the weather.  If needed, consider a sweater or coat for your dog.  Another worry is paws being cut by ice or cracking from the cold.  For dogs with sensitive paws consider booties and for all dogs a little bit of bag balm on the paws after outdoor play is always a good idea.

Now that you’re both ready, what do you do?  Well, try starting with the same places you go in the summer.  Outdoor hikes, whether cross country or trail, can be just as spectacular in January as they are in July.  In addition, trips to familiar areas in different weather conditions is a great bonding activity for your dog.  The combination of the familiar and the new will engage your dog’s mind as well as their body without the uncertainty some dogs can experience in new places.  Don’t forget the dog park either.  Many dog parks have far fewer visitors in the winter than summer and so can provide you and your dog with a unique experience.

These ideas obviously are for longer excursions.  What about every day type exercise?  Colorado is lucky in that our snow usually doesn’t stick around long so walks are usually possible.  It’s very easy to neglect  regular walks when it’s cold.  Please don’t.  Keep in mind that walking in the winter, event when there is no snow, is more physically demanding so your walks don’t have to be as long.  They are still very important.  Also, taking a few extra minutes when you are shoveling your sidewalks to make sure that your dog, especially if they are a small dog or puppy, has good access and space in the yard is vital.  This will prevent soiling in inappropriate places and provide the dog with an exercise area.  Spending ten to fifteen minutes a day outside playing and working on some light training will keep your pet happy and prevent obedience from slipping.

Two other ideas are treadmills and daycare.  Most dogs can be easily trained to walk on a tread mill which provides them with an on demand source of exercise and stimulation.  Likewise you would be hard pressed to find a more aerobic and stimulating activity than a day or two a week at Fetchers.  While I am definitely biased I believe a couple days a week at Fetchers will go a long ways towards having a happy, healthy dog.

The important thing to do is to just get out there.  Don’t let the cold stop you from enjoying your dog and the outdoors.  Try and share in your dog’s excitement and wonder of the winter landscape.  Doing that will bring you closer to each other and you just might have some fun.

With Halloween just around the corner now is a great time to discuss door aggression in our dogs.  This is one of the most common training issues clients ask about and is also fairly easily solved.  Remember though, Halloween night is not the time to try and work on this.  Start now and you and your dog can both enjoy a calm night of greeting trick-or-treaters.

-         Find a spot away from the door but still within view of it.  This is where your dog will go when the doorbell rings.

-         Place your dog on a lead or leash.  Have a spouse, child, or friend leave the house, wait five minutes and ring the doorbell.

-         When your dog begins to respond negatively issue a correction and make them sit.

-         Repeat this for every step, i.e. going to the door, opening the door, letting in your guest.

-         Every time your dog breaks from the sit position, grab the lead, put them back in their spot, make them sit, and wait for them to calm down before going to the next step.

-         Have your guests address you, not the dog!  Ignore the dog initially.  After you have had a conversation, release your dog.  Your guests should still ignore the dog until the dog has approached and smelled them.  Only after everyone is comfortable should they greet the dog.

Now the key to this is repetition.  Practice 2-3 times a day and try to vary the times and people helping you.  After a week or two you should have a dog that is comfortable with the doorbell and has much better manners.

Myself and the other trainers at Fetchers Dog Care deal with this issue, and many others, every single day.  So whether your dog is the terror of the neighborhood or one quirk away from perfect, give us a call and we’ll help you and your best friend.

With Halloween just around the corner now is a great time to discuss door aggression in our dogs.  This is one of the most common training issues clients ask about and is also fairly easily solved.  Remember though, Halloween night is not the time to try and work on this.  Start now and you and your dog can both enjoy a calm night of greeting trick-or-treaters.

-         Find a spot away from the door but still within view of it.  This is where your dog will go when the doorbell rings.

-         Place your dog on a lead or leash.  Have a spouse, child, or friend leave the house, wait five minutes and ring the doorbell.

-         When your dog begins to respond negatively issue a correction and make them sit.

-         Repeat this for every step, i.e. going to the door, opening the door, letting in your guest.

-         Every time your dog breaks from the sit position, grab the lead, put them back in their spot, make them sit, and wait for them to calm down before going to the next step.

-         Have your guests address you, not the dog!  Ignore the dog initially.  After you have had a conversation, release your dog.  Your guests should still ignore the dog until the dog has approached and smelled them.  Only after everyone is comfortable should they greet the dog.

Now the key to this is repetition.  Practice 2-3 times a day and try to vary the times and people helping you.  After a week or two you should have a dog that is comfortable with the doorbell and has much better manners.

Myself and the other trainers at Fetchers Dog Care deal with this issue, and many others, every single day.  So whether your dog is the terror of the neighborhood or one quirk away from perfect, give us a call and we’ll help you and your best friend.

We’ll be offering training tips on a weekly basis but to gain the most from these tips, make sure you call Fetchers!

We’ll be offering training tips on a weekly basis but to gain the most from these tips, make sure you call Fetchers to have a trained staff member

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Hurry before dates fill up! With the change of seasons, it is also time to get your dog’s vaccinations updated. Please update our records by faxing current vaccinations and dates to (303) 733-0950.

Call us at (303) 733-3313 to make your reservations today!

Hurry before dates fill up! With the change of seasons, it is also time to get your dog’s vaccinations updated. Please update our records by faxing current vaccinations and dates to (303) 733-0950.

Call us at (303) 733-3313 to make your reservations today!

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